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3D printing. All you need

This page serves as TinkerVault’s main guide to 3D printing. It contains detailed information on choosing a printer, filament, storing plastic, accessories, maintenance, printable models, and useful settings. If you’re just getting started, begin by visiting the “3D Printing: Quick Start” page.

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About 3D Printing

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3D printing is undoubtedly a great addition to DIY hobbies; you can do so much more with a 3D printer, and it pairs perfectly with DIY electronics, home improvement, and small repairs.

 

​3D printing is ideal for the following tasks:

  • repairing household items;

  • creating enclosures for electronics;

  • printing holders, mounts, and organizers;

  • parts for DIY projects;

  • workstation upgrades;

  • prototyping;

  • hobbies and CAD training.

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Before purchasing a 3D printer, I spent months researching this area so that I would be well-prepared to make a decision. I looked into which printer is the most reliable and easy to use, which is the quietest (a very important factor for me since the printer is in my living room), which filaments (plastics) are of good quality and don't cost too much, which accessories I will need (for example, a dry-box, since it will be needed for almost all types of plastic except PLA to get the best print quality).

Weighing all the pros and cons, my choice is the Bambu Lab A1 with the AMS Lite system for multicolor printing.

It's worth noting that despite the Bambu Lab A1 being the quietest printer, I built a soundproof cabinet for it using affordable IKEA furniture, thereby making it truly quiet.​

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3D printers

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The days when 3D printing was complex and required specialized knowledge to operate 3D printers are gone. 3D printing has never been as widely available as it is now. You can easily get acceptable results without much effort, although you will still need to spend some time learning the field to get the highest quality results and work with plastics other than PLA.

There are many 3D printer manufacturers on the market, but after studying many reviews with pros and cons, I would like to highlight two of them that produce very high-quality printers that are beginner-friendly, as they work out of the box and have user-friendly and advanced software:

  • Prusa - It's a Czech 3D printer manufacturer known for its exceptional quality and endurance, it's the gold standard of 3D printing. But with quality comes price - printers are not cheap. Prusa printers have an open architecture and are easy to upgrade and modify (Prusa also sells parts to upgrade older versions of their printers, so you can keep your printer up to date for years to come). Prusa printers are justifiably called the best DIY 3D printers, also because they sell a disassembled printer kit that you can assemble yourself using detailed instructions. Buying such a kit will not only save you some budget (about 25%), but you will also know your printer down to the smallest detail.

  • Bambu Lab - It is a rising star among 3D printer manufacturers. The printers are very easy to learn, and the company has good customer support. Bambu Lab printers are considered the best for those who are just starting out in 3D printing. They have a very good product line, software applications (desktop and mobile), and video tutorials. These are very reliable printers, and I haven't noticed any serious complaints about these printers among the 3D printing enthusiast community, including those who print 1-1.5 kg of filament daily on these super-fast printers. If you're unsure whether to invest in 3D printing, it's worth checking out the entry-level and affordable models from Bambu Lab:

    • ​The A1 mini - quiet, compact (180 x 180 mm print area), and very affordable (€190) - is the best way for anyone to get started with 3D printing. Multicolor printing is also available with the AMS Lite system (4 colors).

    • ​A1 - also a very quiet printer, but with a standard print area of 256 x 256 mm; it’s just as fast as the P/X series printers, but due to its open frame, it cannot print certain types of engineering plastics that require a closed frame, such as ABS, ASA, PC, etc., and a very hot build plate (>100°C). Compatible with the AMS Lite multi-color system.

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​​​Filament (plastic 3D printers)

 

There are many types of filament with different physical properties; some require specific printing conditions (such as an enclosed space with a stable temperature) or high nozzle or build plate temperatures. Some may be safe to use but emit toxic fumes during printing (e.g., ABS). For the vast majority of users, it is sufficient to master three types of plastic—PLA, PETG, and TPU—which are safe for home printing. And if your projects are limited to decorative items, then PLA will suffice.

 

PLA is very easy to print with, forgiving of mistakes, and available in a huge variety of colors. It’s the best place to start.

 

PETG is slightly more demanding for complex geometries and may exhibit warping on long parts, but it has a significant advantage over PLA because it is UV-resistant, more heat-resistant (it won’t lose its shape in the sun), and slightly more elastic. It is suitable for items used outdoors.

 

TPU is a flexible plastic and very wear-resistant. TPU comes in varying degrees of flexibility, which is indicated in its description (Shore hardness index).

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Generally, all filaments from 3D printer makers have a good and stable quality and will not disappoint you, however, these filaments are usually 1.5-2 times more expensive than 3D-party filaments.

​However, if you are going to print a lot, have different colors, and different types of plastic (there are tens of them with different capabilities like UV-endurance, flexibility, wear-resistance, brittleness, transparency, glossy, soft-touch, silk shine, carbon fiber, etc.) your hobby will going to be expensive, that is why it makes sense to turn your attention to other filament makers (mostly Chinese).

 

In my work, in addition to Bambu Lab’s own filament, I also frequently use products from JAYO, Sunlu, and a few from GEETECH. Below are links to where you can purchase them:​

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Web resources about filament specifics and settings for them:

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Issues with 3D printing quality and calibration

 

If you're not satisfied with the quality of your 3D prints or want to improve performance, it makes sense to calibrate your 3D printer for your specific filament. This calibration is performed for a specific type of filament from a specific brand (and in some cases, even a specific color). Slicers have calibration tests; for example, in Bambu Studio, the most popular and useful ones are Flow Dynamics and Flow Rate.

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Below is additional information on improving print quality:

  • Max volumetric speed calibration - a calibration test to determine the maximum print speed for a specific type of plastic; this is very useful if you need to speed up printing without compromising quality.

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Dry boxes

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If you’re printing only PLA, a drying cabinet isn’t necessary on the first day. If you’re printing PETG, TPU, or Nylon, or if you store open spools for a long time, humidity control becomes very important.

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Almost all filaments (PLA in less extent) need to be dried before use or even printed directly from a drybox, as they are very water-absorbing, and model defects can be unacceptable if the filament is not dried. Wet filament is the most common reason for a bad 3D printing experience, even if you have a good printer.

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The humidity in your filament storage room should not be higher than 30% (except PLA). If that is an issue, then you should consider having a drybox or keeping your spools constantly in sealed bags and opening them only during printing.

Some filaments might require even 10-20% humidity.

Dry boxes can be passive (sealed box) or active with a heating chamber and sometimes with desiccant compartments.

Some people use food dehydrators as active dry boxes, but it's better to use specialized devices.

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The process of keeping your plastic dry can be broken down into three scenarios:

  • Basic Option

    • vacuum bags;

    • silica gel;

    • hygrometer.

  • Optimal Option (an upgrade to the basic option)

    • active dryer for 1–2 spools;

    • airtight container (passive dry box);

    • PTFE tubing from the container to the printer.

  • Advanced option (an upgrade to the optimal option)

    • Sunlu S4 or equivalent;

    • several dry boxes for long-term storage, so you don’t have to transfer filament from the container to vacuum bags.

 

Vacuum bags.

To keep your open spools in perfect condition, regardless of whether you have a drybox or not, it is recommended to use:

Pump with vacuum bags perfectly matches with an active filament dryer, as you can seal freshly dried filament and keep it that way, preventing water absorption. Also, you may print a vacuum pump stand to make the process of vacuum-sealing your 3D printing filament quick and effortless.

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Passive dryers (dry boxes).

The main feature of passive dry boxes - they should be well sealed and perfectly fit to filament spools. These characteristics are perfectly implemented in food containers.

The most popular and affordable examples of such containers that can be used as dry boxes for filament are: 

To keep the sealed environment dry, you need to put silica gel absorbent - desiccant(Amazon.de) (Amazon.com) into the container together with the filament.

In order to print directly from the passive drybox, you need to "upgrade it" by printing rollers and installing fittings.

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Active dryers

Below are 2 good examples of active filament dryers (dry boxes):

There is also a DIY active dryer built based on an IKEA container with Arduino control.

Here is the article about drying time and temperature for different filaments.​​​​

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3D printer maintenance

 

If you want to extend the life of your 3D printer and produce perfect 3D prints, you need to maintain it regularly - specifically, by lubricating it and removing small pieces of plastic that accumulate during operation, and by washing the print sheet (mat) with soapy water.

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Bambu Lab printers periodically notify users about the necessity to lubricate. If you get a notification (does not matter which axis), perform the lubrication of all axes at once. It does not take much time, but the 3D printer will thank you.

Some people do not rely on notifications and perform lubrication of the Y and X axes every 2 weeks, and the Z-axis every month if you are actively printing.

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Tubes of lubricant and oil (especially) run out very quickly, so the small tube that comes with the printer will soon be empty; be sure to replace it. Below are lubricants and accessories that will help you with this process:

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3D printing accessories

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Accessories I use on a regular basis:

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Basic tools

  • Side cutters (files, screwdrivers, a Dremel, and sandpaper can also come in handy. I can recommend a review of the DIY tools I use)

  • ​Blade for removing parts from the print bed (AliExpress) – incredibly handy for removing parts stuck to the bed, including brims and calibration strips. The blade is very thin, glides along the surface, and doesn’t damage it.

  • Adhesive glue (improves adhesion in some difficult situations when other methods don’t work. This adhesive can also be useful when printing TPU to protect the print surface, since TPU has very high adhesion and can damage the print bed when removing the printed part)

  • wipes;

  • lubricant;​

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For storing and feeding filament

  • PTFE- tubing (the most common sizes used for 3D printing are PTFE tubes with an outer diameter of 4 mm and an inner diameter of 2.5 mm (OD 4, ID 2.5) or an inner diameter of 3 mm. PTFE is a special, highly slippery material that significantly reduces friction, facilitating filament movement and extending the tube’s lifespan.)

  • Fittings (the PC4-M10 version has an M10 thread, while the PC4-M6 version has an M6 thread)

  • Dry boxes;

  • Vacuum bags.
     

For DIY and model building

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For better printing (Printing sheets, mats):

  • Bambu Lab A1 Mini (AliExpress), (Amazon)

  • Bambu Lab A1/P1P/P1S/X1C (AliExpress)​, (Amazon)

  • CryoGrip-Frostbite(AliExpress), (Amazon), (Official website) - a new generation of mats on which I print PETG and PLA at 25 °C, i.e., without any heating at all! Everything adheres perfectly and doesn’t peel off. I wash the mat once a week using only dish soap. Energy consumption has dropped by almost 3 times (from 115 Wh to 42 Wh). After 9 months of very intensive use of only one side of the mat (8-12 hours of printing every day), a few surface defects appeared (1-2 mm in about 5 spots), and adhesion decreased; to compensate, I had to raise the temperature to 40-45 °C for PETG, which is still lower than when using textured PEI.​​

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Web resources where you can find models for 3D printing

 
Websites with free 3D models (mostly) and paid 3D models to print

 

Websites with free (mostly) and paid 3D models (not only directly designed for 3D printing)

  • 3D Model Database - 3D models search, which you may (or may not) use to slice and 3D print.

  • GrabCAD - a 3D models database for popular CAD software that can be used for slicing and printing

  • Traceparts - 3D engineering models of mechanical components, some of which can be useful for modifying and slicing for printing

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Get inspired by awesome selected models, collections, and contest awards winners

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CAD software

Someday you will want to create self-designed models because you can't find a good one for your needs, or you need something unique and specific, or you want to repair some broken household items. Some simple things you can do using slicing software, but it's very limited in terms of model design. To solve this need, CAD software exists. There are many of them on the market, including free versions for personal use.

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The most popular are:

  • TinkerCAD - The easiest way to get started. Great for beginners.

  • Shapr 3D - It works in a browser, has an iPad app with a stylus, and is easy for beginners to get started with.

  • OnShape - Convenient to use in a browser; well-suited for parametric models.

  • Autodesk Fusion 360 - A powerful tool, suitable for professional modeling.​

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3D models for printer upgrades

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Bambu Lab A1/A1 Mini upgrades

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Printer enclosure for Bambu Lab A1 using IKEA furniture
 
​AMS Lite upgrades

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​​Filament swatches (samples)

  • Swatches - good swatches design with printable filament description and transparency section.

  • Swatch display(box) - convenient storage for swatches from the link above

 
​IKEA upgrades

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Other useful models

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3D models for DIY and electronics

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Home improvement, accessories:

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Dremel upgrades

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Models for DIY electronics:

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Batteries:

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Other useful models

  • Sanding stick / Alternative design - a stick for sanding paper makes sanding post-processing more convenient

  • Screw Gauge by Bambu Lab - a simple tool that is very convenient for quickly determining screw/bolt sizes (diameter and length)

  • Collection of measurement tools - great collection, I recommend having a look at it.

  • Bearing generator - bearings are easy and fast to print, you can generate any size and get an STL file, suitable for unloaded designs, I use them in bushings for filament spools in 608zz format (6x8x22mm)​ ​​

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Slicer settings, tips for print quality, and additional information

  • Step-by-step guide for creating a soundproof enclosure for a 3D printer using affordable IKEA furniture

  • How much space do you need to place the Bambu Lab A1 printer?

  • How to decrease plastic poop from the AMS system: Video1, Video2

  • The Adaptive Layer Height feature can be very useful for improving print quality, but sometimes it may be necessary to limit the minimum or maximum layer height, e.g., not below 0.16mm. This can be done by setting the minimum and maximum height parameters in the following settings: Printer Settings → Extruder → Layer height limits.

  • Effect of slicer parameters on model strength (links below lead to detailed video tests):

    • Layer height - It is better to stick to half nozzle diameter or less (for 0.4mm - layer height <=0.2mm)

    • Walls, Infill type, and % of infill - 3 walls+20% infill is the sweet spot. Walls are better than infill after 20%, 3D honeycomb is the strongest, Gyroid is the 2nd strong, but also has a higher weight/strength ratio.

    • ​Extrusion width - the value of width up to 140% of the nozzle diameter practically does not affect the quality, but it improves the bonding of layers, which improves the strength at the same wall thickness (the number of walls should be reduced).

  • Philips Fixables - a collaboration project between Prusa and Philips to create free 3D models of spare parts for Philips appliances, such as trimmers and shavers.

  • Gluing 3D printer parts -  great article with a breakdown of different types of adhesives, the nuances of their application. Will be useful not only in 3D printing.

  • Hinges design for 3D printing​

  • An excellent article on methods for reducing warping, which occurs in PLA prints, particularly when printing large parts.

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Support Tinker Vault
Some links are affiliate links (Amazon.com, Amazon.de, AliExpress). Every product is bought and tested independently - your support (with no extra cost for you) keeps this project going. Thank you!

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